Best mestizo taco: Korean-Mexican-Japanese.

Every regional or national cuisine is a combination of standards. Kuko overlaps a few of them in one section of its menu: tacos. It offers a wide scope. There’s a nanban chicken taco: fried, glazed, which sweetens and unites, freshens and grinds to the bite of its (few) nuts; there’s another one, called moo moo, made of beef BBQ ribs, which opens its arms to receive even more influences; another one, spicy tuna, plays the game of textures: a cubic avocado bite, tiny explosions of tobiko (flying fish roe), greasy eel sauce… All these tacos suggest the hosomaki style (or sushi roll): rolled flour tortilla, cut transversally and placed vertically on the plate. None of them is as happy as the Korean-Mexican-Japanese bacon and kimchi taco. Is it because the smoke and fermented smells take us back to something atavistic, primitive, sexual, repressed, instinctive and related to the id? Or is it just that this taco is extremely good?

Río Lerma 94, Cuauhtémoc; T 5207 3344.


Prices. One order of tacos, two chocolata clams, one tuna battera, sparkling water for two and a couple of glasses of wine will be around 750-800 pesos.


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